This is NOT a beginner area. Extensive experience on multi-pitch trad climbing walls is required. If you are a beginner or have little multi-pitch experience, consider less remote multi-pitch destinations with easier logistics and routes, such as Frey, located near Bariloche, Argentina.
Grades and lengths: Most multi-pitch routes start at grades 5.10c / 6b+ and increase in difficulty from there; they can range in length from 5 to 30 pitches.
There is no rescue nor medical services. In addition, being a remote and difficult to access area makes any evacuation difficult and increases the risk of death.
Thousand meter granite walls border the valley along the Cochamó River. Valle Cochamó's rock provides route potential beyond the imagination. Because of its relatively short history, these granite walls have only recently become recognized as a world-class bigwall, multipitch destination. If you're into long routes and climbing in a gorgeous natural landscape, Valle Cochamó is one of South America's best.
The Yosemite of South America? Many climbers who have spent time in Yosemite Valley in the United States agree that climbing in the Cochamó Valley shares several characteristics due to its imposing granite formations. However, what it fortunately does not share — thanks to the lack of vehicular access in Cochamó — is the noise of engines, generators and mass tourism. Cochamó is Cochamó, although at first glance many may see similarities, its wild nature and minimal human impact make it a place unlike any other in the world. That’s why some prefer to say that Yosemite is the Cochamó of North America..
Decide when to go, reserve ahead of time and plan well. Camping La Junta reaches full capacity in January and February, which are among the best months for climbing. Especially during these months, it's not viable to decide at the last minute to go nor wait for a window of good weather and then head out. Check out When To Go to help you decide the best time to visit. For a destination like this, it's always safer to book in advance and plan with detail your trip. If you're planning to climb a long route, your plans will likely include a bivouac un the upper valleys. Please read the Upper Valleys.
So, the basics:
1. Decide when to go.
2. Reserve in advance.
3. Plan your trip and climb carefully.
200 big-wall routes. Some of the most classic are:
View and download PDFs of some of the best routes in Cochamó, complete with topos, photos, descriptions and comments, on the website Cochamó's Climbing Routes.
More than 100 cragging routes from 5.6 and up. This includes sport routes, mixed (bolts and gear) and all gear cracks. Many groups opt for the less demaninding day by climbing single pitch routes, which are popping up around the valley. These routes range from 5.6 to 5.13, with a majority in the 5.10 and 5.11 range. One paticular wall, Pared Seca, remains dry and climbable when it rains. If you come just to crag, bring a small rack. Just a few cams and nuts will enable you to select from many more routes.
New routes are everywhere. Even many walls have not yet been touched. So many lines to open, life's too short. The area has minimal development compared to its potential but when including its shorter routes too, more than 400 routes already exist. The rock quality is excellent. Nevertheless, unclimbed cracks tend to be dirty and vegetated in places.
Bouldering: Bouldering: Minimal bouldering exists. Opening new problems requires extensive cleaning.
