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detalles de la ruta  detalles de la ruta

Coriolis Effect  

5.11c  

583 m  

3s

características básicas

categorización:      ?
dificultad:   5.11c
largo:   583 metros, 16 largos
tipo de escalada:   fisura y placa
tipo de piedra:   granito
características:   arete, dihedral, roof, finger crack, hand crack, varying crack
ángulo:   aplomada, casí vertical, vertical, apenas desplomada
sector:   Anfiteatro [Ver mapa de paredes.]

       


historía

1° ascención: Abierto febrero 2013 por los norteamericanos Evan Belknap, Rhane Pfeiffer, Tate Shepherd y Shawn Wright.


largo por largo
1° largo:  

5.10a, 35 metros. Climb face until left-trending ramp which leads to belay

2° largo:  

5.10a, 35 metros. Move left off belay. Look for a jug above the bolt to pull a bouldery move over the roof. Follow cracks to top. Belay off gear.

3° largo:  

5.6, 60 metros. 4th/5th-class climbing up and right through ledges and vegetation. Continue past the 11b corner of the Doppler Effect. Follow cairns until you reach the bolted arete.

4° largo:  

5.10c, 35 metros. 8 bolts. Climb the well-bolted arete. Belay from one bolt and gear.

5° largo:  

5.8, 50 metros. Choose easiest path upward. Move left of big roof. Belay from the big ledge.

6° largo:  

5.9, 45 metros. 6gear, maybe a 4 camalot, not necessary though. Follow ledge system until splitter wide crack. Climb this. Belay at the base of a steep crack on the right side of the arete.

7° largo:  

5.11a, 50 metros. Climb the steep crack. Reach ledge and belay from two bolts.

8° largo:  

5.11c, 35 metros. Two options: 1. 5.11b/c. ”Move belay far left, away from ledge until you are at the base of the 2 bolt move that pulls through thin face moves and into a crack, through a small roof, and to a sharp, splitter, thin hand crack. OR 2. 5.10a. Climb the arete, following bolts and reach a 2 bolt anchor.

9° largo:  

5.6, 0 metros. Follow ramp up and left. Belay from jumble of boulders.

10° largo:  

5.7, 25 metros. Climb easy arete to top of ledge.

11° largo:  

5.6, 0 metros. Traverse easy ledge.

12° largo:  

5.9, 50 metros. Climb the bulges of the arete. Extend all gear. Pass a bolt and move right into a large right-facing "V Slot" corner. Belay on gear at top of corner.

13° largo:  

5.7, 40 metros. 13 Traverse pitch. Traverse left across ramp. Downclimb into system of ski tracks. Traverse past these and pass a bolt with a left carabiner. Downclimb this or lower into the corner with a big ledge at base. Belay off gear.

14° largo:  

5.10a, 68 metros. Bomber hanging gear belay midway. Climb 5.8 corner. Pull through roof crack to splitters. follow crack until bolt off right. Follow bolts (all placed on lead with sky-hooks). Pass a ramp and look for gear on the face to avoid the crappy chimney. Bolt for the final tricky face move. Belay from fixed slings around big horn at top of ledge.

15° largo:  

5.10a, 0 metros. See above.

16° largo:  

5.9, 55 metros. Traverse across ramp, clip and extend the hidden bolt. Place gear on the flake of arete and continue straight up, doing a tricky mantle move at bolt. Move left and then straight up across really cool (and absolutely unprotected) pocketed slab climbing to finish climb.


Al cumbre: Rope up for short, easy 5th class climbing (or not). Then 10 minutes, scrambling, to the incredible summit.


Descenso: Rappel the route with double ropes to the top of the 6th pitch. Then walk off to the south, decending fixed lines to the long scree gully. Descend the gully. Be careful with loose rocks.



precauciones

Climb justly and fearlessly on the 16th pitch and don't fall. We have all seriously considered putting a bolt in the final face, but it has not yet happened. We are okay with it, if someone wants to put one in.







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