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route info  route info

Al Centro y Adentro  

5.11d  

455 m  

5s

quick-look chart

Pitch 12.
ranking:      ?
difficulty:   5.11d
length:   455 meters, 12 pitches
type of climbing:   crack and face
type of rock:   granite
characteristics:   face, arete, dihedral, finger crack, hand crack, varying crack
steepness:   less than vertical, vertical
sector:   Anfiteatro [See map of walls.]

     


description

A classic line that follows splitter cracks and fun face up the center, and literally inside, Pared Atardecer. The climbing provides good pro and safe distances between bolts. Cruxes come and go, not being necessarily continous and the hardest moves protected by bolts and easliy aided.


history

1st ascent: Febuary 2012 by North Americans J. B. Habb y Daniel Seeliger.


pitch by pitch

Approach: 45 min. From the talus field camp, look for karens that lead down to the main stream, cross and lead into a bamboo thicket below a large boulder. This trail will traverse and climb to the gully that leads to the base of the wall. Get to the rock gully and make your way up. About 200 meters before getting to the base of the route, you’ll encounter large boulders obstructing the hike. On the rights side, enter a cave and make a squeeze-chimney boulder move to mount the boulders.

Pitch 1:  

5.10a, 35 meters. Start in the left-facing dihedral but immediately follow the hand crack diahonal left and up. Pass through a offwidth section. Belay at a small ledge with a bolt and placing gear.

Pitch 2:  

5.10d, 35 meters. Follow the crack staight up, not the left crack. Make a move over a small roof into finger-tip cracks that lead to a diagonal offwidth. Follow this into a perfect finger crack that leads to an anchor.

Pitch 3:  

5.11b, 45 meters. Here the main cracks disapear below a roof and you have to make a strenous move right and into a bombay chimney. Then, climb up it as it tapers into offwidth, fists and then hands finishing on a large ledge and two bolt anchor.

Pitch 4:  

5.10c, 30 meters. Climb the left-facing dihedral and mount the enormous block. Move right and follow bolts through face on the obvious arete to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 5:  

5.11d, 40 meters. This sport-like pitch starts with technical and reachy face moves that follow the arete up and into a flake crack. Traverse right at its top, a few more face moves clipping a bolt and finish on varied cracks. Belay at a big ledge with two bolts.

Pitch 6:  

5.7, 40 meters. Go straight up from the anchor scrambling up the large ledge system. Climb a right leaning ramp dihedral then up and slightly left up another crack system. Mount a slopy ledge and move right to a belay point, one bolt and place gear.

Pitch 7:  

5.10d, 35 meters. Climb up into a short right-facing dihedral that becomes a small ledge. Traverse left into a flake and then follow the face with bolts up. Later climb a thin crack and finish on thin slabby section protected by a bolt. Belay at bolted anchor.

Pitch 8:  

5.10d, 45 meters. Climb straight up from the anchor into a finger crack. Mount a ramp that leads into a large left-facing dihedral. Get your micro stoppers ready and climb through very thin crack and face moves and eventually into a finger crack. Belay at the anchor at the top of the dihedral.

Pitch 9:  

5.11a, 40 meters. The Duck Peak pitch. Move right along ledge and pass another anchor and move up face. Curve and traverse left and again up to the base of the large flake. Squeeze into and under the duck beak and easy chimney to a ledge. Build a belay.

Pitch 10:  

5.9, 40 meters. Here do one of two options. Traverse directly right, moving your anchor to the base of the beautiful left-facing hand crack and climb it to the bolted anchor (5.10). Or climb up mantling ledges and then up the ramp to the bolted anchor.

Pitch 11:  

5.10c, 45 meters. Climb the double-crack dihedral. Higher it becomes a single crack. Set up an anchor at the base of the last pitch on a ledge.

Pitch 12:  

5.11a, 25 meters. Climb the dihedral. Towards its end the crack seals. Protect and make a reachy move to a flake out right. Mantle and then make face moves right and slightly down to another crack. From here, climb just some meters to wall’s end and huge ledge and find a place to build an anchor.


To the peak: 20 min. Walk right along the ledges to the southwest ridge line. Scramble up to the false peak and over to the real karened peak.


Descent: Rapel the route. The first rapel is located climber’s left 20 meters from the route’s finish. Caution!: The rapels are straight forward except the rapel onto the large ledge (pitch five’s finish). Rap to the top part of the ledge and scramble down to the anchor. A 60-meter rope won’t reach.


gear

two 60 m ropes, cams 000 to #5, double up 0 to #3, micro stoppers. You’ll need the #5 and #4 only up through pitch 3, thus you can leave it there to save weight.







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